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> Engine and Transmission > Changing the Spark Plugs for the 2002 Escape XLT V6!!!!
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abhuff19
New Member!

Registered: Mar 2006
Location: Great Falls, Montana
Posts: 6

Changing the Spark Plugs for the 2002 Escape XLT V6!!!!

So I finally changed the spark plugs for the 3.0L V6 XLT model! Yeah that was interesting. I changed them at 62000 miles. They were really ready for the change. I replaced them with Bosch Platinum 4. I am really glad I done the change. You have to take the manifold off to get to the damn things. It took about 3 hrs. but this is the first time I have ever done that. If you have any questions about this procedure that I can help you with let me know!!!

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abhuff19 is offline Old Post 03-24-2006 05:25 AM
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GatorJ
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 4495

quote:
Originally posted by tonyford
62,000 miles is way to early to change the plugs. With Fords hot coil there is not much that could attach to the plug to foul it. Ford recommends 100,000 miles before changing plugs. My mechanic has seen Escapes with 125,000 miles on them and the plugs were still good.
You must of have or had a bad fuel to air ratio to kill those plugs that early...




Anyone that leaves these plugs in for close to 100K miles is asking for trouble. Do a search.


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GatorJ is offline Old Post 03-25-2006 04:45 AM
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abhuff19
New Member!

Registered: Mar 2006
Location: Great Falls, Montana
Posts: 6

I changed the spark plugs at 62000 miles and lets just say if you waited til 100,000 to 120,000 to change them. I just hope they dont disappoint you on how they look and how hard and rusty they are to come out. I changed them because after looking at them, I'm glad I did. Not saying the look matters but the mechanic said it wouldn't hurt. And not to mention that all companies can make lemons or bad cars. Sorry your mechanic has seen Escapes with 125,000 mi. with good plugs, but I'm not basing my Escape off of anyone else's. THEY ARE NOT ALL THE SAME!!! But thanks for the reply!

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abhuff19 is offline Old Post 03-25-2006 05:13 AM
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denstoe
Neutral

Registered: Apr 2005
Location:
Posts: 79

Mine will get the plugs changed AGAIN at 75000 miles and while I'm at it I will replace the valve cover gaskets as well. If they aren't leaking or seeping now they will be soon.


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denstoe is offline Old Post 03-25-2006 05:46 AM
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GatorJ
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 4495

You are not going to want to leave Platinum 4's in past 50K miles.


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GatorJ is offline Old Post 03-25-2006 05:50 AM
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bananaboat
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Dec 2002
Location: north texas
Posts: 2566

My F150 with the small V8 was pinging by 85k miles with plat plugs and they were toasted. I changed my 02 Escape's plugs at 75k and they were in good shape but like others have stated, it ain't a good idea to leave a dry plug in the aluminum head that long. Plus it helps prevent some other problems - check for water underneath the COP and cracks.

I plan to change out my I4's plugs today just on a lark. Yes it's way early but they're so easy to change plus I've always had 4-bangers perform much better with NGKs (response and MPGs). I've never seen much difference in V6/V8s but the lowly Nissan/Toy/Ford 4-bangers I've owned have really liked them.


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bananaboat is offline Old Post 03-25-2006 05:17 PM
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GatorJ
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 4495

quote:
Originally posted by tonyford
I always go by the old adage, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Preventive maintenance is one thing, but I don't go looking for trouble. Believe me I will now when it is time to change the spark plugs.

Ford uses one of the hottest coils in the industry. It is very rare that Motorcraft plugs get fouled, the voltage the coil produces prevents any fouling of the plug. I would also stay with Motorcraft plugs, these plugs are designed to work with this engine, my mechanic always puts back what he takes out exactly, no aftermarket brands.

I am glad I don't have to mess around with gaskets and air intakes. I am pretty mechanically inclinded and do a lot of my own maintenance, but tackling this job is not for me. I will let my mechanic do this job. He has all the right tools to get out those rusted and frozen plugs...I would rather keep my knuckles from bleeding thank you...



You really need to do a search on this. You don't realize what the issue is. You don't want to leave the original plugs in for 100K miles.


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GatorJ is offline Old Post 03-26-2006 06:47 AM
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GatorJ
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Apr 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 4495

If you wash your engine, water collects in the front bank cylinder head and seeps past the coil boots. The coils corrode and the plugs rust. Not an issue with the rear bank.


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GatorJ is offline Old Post 03-26-2006 09:32 PM
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bananaboat
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Dec 2002
Location: north texas
Posts: 2566

I changed the plugs in less than 30 minutes but the 2.3 I4 is rather interesting. The plastic cover has a lip underneath the COP's rubber boot so this may help prevent moisture. Remember the I4 has the COPs on a horizontal surface. Once you remove the COP, it's not a self-contained cylinder like the V6. It's open so you could touch another COP assuming you had long fingers.

The plugs were dry just like the V6 and sounded awful coming out. The OEM plugs are stamped "Japan" and "ITR5F13". These are NGK Iridium platinums from the factory! I thought my V6 Escape had MC platinums. So I changed them out with some NGK Iridium Extremes. I does seem slightly smoother but I seriously doubt any real difference since it already had NGK Iridiums. So, save yourself $30 and wait until you want to change them in the I4.


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2005 XLS 2.3 - sold
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bananaboat is offline Old Post 03-27-2006 05:58 AM
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XcapeRF03
Platinum Member

Registered: Jun 2005
Location:
Posts: 844

quote:
Originally posted by GatorJ
If you wash your engine, water collects in the front bank cylinder head and seeps past the coil boots. The coils corrode and the plugs rust. Not an issue with the rear bank.


Someone told me that it is not a good idea to be washing the engine of a newer car/truck/suv because all of the sophisticated electronics. Could be wrong... but, I wouldn't do it.

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XcapeRF03 is offline Old Post 03-27-2006 06:02 AM
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XcapeRF03
Platinum Member

Registered: Jun 2005
Location:
Posts: 844

quote:
Originally posted by tonyford
I am with you brother, no way am I gonna stick a garden hose under the hood, lol...don't think it is a good idea to do that...

But, I do take a rag when I have to hood up and wipe everything down that is visible. Just spray a little WD40 on the rag first and then wipe, makes it look like new mama....



I use that and some tire shine.. works fine and it shines.

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XcapeRF03 is offline Old Post 03-27-2006 06:58 AM
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exgmman
3rd Gear

Registered: May 2005
Location: Stonewall, Manitoba
Posts: 321

You can wash the engine, if you want. Just drive the vehicle for a while after you wash it to dry off the engine.
If you have driven through a severe thunderstorm, your engine has gotten as wet as it gets when you wash it...
Just try to avoid the alternator and the coils...


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28 grams of preventon is worth 454 grams of cure!....

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exgmman is offline Old Post 03-27-2006 07:06 AM
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exgmman
3rd Gear

Registered: May 2005
Location: Stonewall, Manitoba
Posts: 321

Just make sure you have yr. rain suit on....


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28 grams of preventon is worth 454 grams of cure!....

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exgmman is offline Old Post 03-29-2006 06:29 AM
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Magnum Force
New Member!

Registered: Jun 2004
Location: Southwestern New York
Posts: 39

I own an 02 Escape with 127,000 miles. I have never changed the plugs and would like to perform the task myself. I was able to download instructions when I changed them in my 01 Supercrew last summer. (boy was that ever fun!!!) Anyway, does anyone know where I can read up on or download a step-by-step procedure for changing my plugs? Thanks

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Magnum Force is offline Old Post 04-13-2006 03:06 PM
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